Day 31, Waikerie – Morgan, 12 Nov

Tony

We make an early start, I enter the kayak at 6am with the sun rising over the river behind me. It’s high cliffs again today and also some tall reeds rising out of the banks. I pass through lock 2 and the flow is indicated as almost ten thousand megalitres a day – I make that ten million litres, but there’s still not much of a current helping me!

I think I’m hallucinating when I see an elephant peering out from the trees, but it’s just a decoration someone’s put there. Later we pass a rabbit that someone added one Easter, too.

I stop at Cadell for a quick break and Pan joins me for the last 10km or so, along with Jean from Barmera, who we met before. There are a few long straights today heading south which are tough with the wind in my face.

I’ve now been on the river a full month – 31 days with just one day’s break from paddling – and I feel a bit sore but good and ready for the final straight. From Morgan the river heads south to the mouth – woo-hoo!

Distance paddled: 63 km

Pan

While I’m waiting for Tony to arrive in Cadell just past the ferry, a crazy-looking houseboat passes by. Someone upstream had talked about a chap that has all sorts of things on his houseboat and entertains people up and down the river. ‘This must be the guy they were talking about’, I think, and I grab my camera and go to the edge of the bank to catch it. He must’ve seen me because he sounded his horn but I couldn’t see him in amongst all his decorations.

Tony arrives in very good time and after a quick apricot ball - another of Jean’s home-made delicacies - we join him on the river, while Jean’s husband, Peter, President of Barmera Lions Club, drives on to Morgan to help us. Jean has also gifted us with a bag of goodies, including her written and photographed record of her own paddling adventure covering the full length of the Murray River some years ago. Thanks for all your help and presents, Jean & Peter, but I’m onto you – you’re just trying to slow Tony down with all your cakes so that he doesn’t beat your record – ha, ha!

It’s good paddling alongside Jean and Tony, with Jean telling us about her previous journey and sharing local knowledge. Leaving Cadell and entering Morgan there are long stretches where we’re paddling directly into the wind and there are waves lapping at the noses of our kayaks. It’s a good bit of exercise, plenty for me, I don’t know how Tony does five times that distance each day for over a month!

As we arrive in Morgan, I see that the houseboat I saw earlier is moored here. I go over and say hello to the owner Frank, better known as Chookman, as he has some chooks living on the boat with him. He’s a musician, a big fan of Johnny Cash, sells his own CDs and DVDs from his boat and plays for people, using his boat as a travelling stage – it brings a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘Life on the Road’! Across the river is the old pontoon. Recently a boat sank right next to it, during the night, I think – they’ve yet to figure out what happened. You can just about see a strip of its hull above the surface.

This entertainment system is by far the coolest I've ever seen!

It reads: 'Da Great Aussie Long Drop'

Margaret has organized for her fellow Lions of Morgan and other friends to have dinner by the river and has brought her houseboat, Moonshine, across so we can use her kitchen. We eat loads of awesome tucker – everyone’s brought a dish – and fill up with cakes afterwards, taking even more home to see us through the next few days. Thanks for setting this up and for contributing to the raffle, everyone. Frank joins us too and donates one of his DVDs, which Tony auctions off to add to our fundraising – cheers, Chookman!

We cruise across the river to Margaret’s beautiful house where she’s putting me up for the night - what a great location! it’s so good to sleep in a proper bed between four walls after four weeks of largely tenting it - I sleep like a baby.

The Chookman's pad by night

Thanks again to Margaret and the Lions of Morgan for their help and donation.